A shower of ruffles, flowers, and happening parades ... What to remember from Paris Fashion Week

“If a garment is only what it shows, if when you stretch out your hand you only touch a skirt, that's not enough.The quote is from Alessandro Michele, artistic director of Gucci, but, in a very different genre, it can just as well be applied to the work of Demna Gvasalia.September 29 in the morning, at the Cité du cinema, in Saint -Denis, the designer of Georgian origin, who arrived at Balenciaga in 2015, once again demonstrated the power and depth of his vision, more generous than the crinolines of his dresses, more disturbing than the cheeks and the false silicone lips of his models The authority but also the humanity with which he takes his audience into his imagination are the mark of a true creator, capable of disturbing as much as of moving.He could make films.He makes fashion, and his casting mixes top models and real people.Between science fiction and contemporary history or art history, the Spring/Summer 2020 wardrobe borrows from the tight-fitting suits of Star Trek, the icy costumes of the bureaucrats, the uniforms of the agents (secrets or se curity) decked out in LED glasses, in the mini-dresses of the trainees of the 1980s but also in the changing room of the Ménines, of Velázquez, dear to Cristobal Balenciaga.made the guests, seated in a single long row, appear to be part of a large assembly.In doing so, he replaced editors and critics in their roles as "judges" and "parties", and fashionable in what 'she must never stop doing: observing and questioning the times.Gvasalia focused on what is called power dressing, a kind of workwear applied to the tertiary sector where the skirt or pantsuit and the dress to lavallière collars symbolize the importance of those who wear them.The expression of power dressing seems strangely old-fashioned and ill-tailored for this fashion which worries and fascinates, always pushes the idea of "acceptable proportions", questions the future just like one iformization of taste, and therefore means much more than what it shows.

Posted Date: 2020-09-17

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